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	<title>User0.net</title>
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	<description>/ˈyo͞ozər/ /ˈzi(ə)rō/ : The first, administrative user on a *nix system. See also, root</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 23 May 2012 01:31:56 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Red Hat Enterprise Linux 6.2</title>
		<link>http://www.user0.net/?p=77</link>
		<comments>http://www.user0.net/?p=77#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 May 2012 01:31:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>root</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[CentOS]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pki]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[RHEL]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ssh]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.user0.net/?p=77</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have a Red Hat lab that is deployed by kickstart, and copies the id_rsa.pub to /root/.ssh/authorized_keys on a workstation in the lab. The workstation is PXE booted and installed with a kickstart as well. When installed with RHEL 6.1 &#8230; <a href="http://www.user0.net/?p=77">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a Red Hat lab that is deployed by kickstart, and copies the id_rsa.pub to /root/.ssh/authorized_keys on a workstation in the lab. The workstation is PXE booted and installed with a kickstart as well.</p>
<p>When installed with RHEL 6.1 (and CentOS 6.1), I could then ssh from server to workstation without the password. However RHEL 6.2 would request the user&#8217;s password. To fix the problem, I had to restore the SELinux context on /root/.ssh with &#8220;restorecon -R -v /root/.ssh&#8221; and then everything worked.</p>
<p>Hopefully, this will save someone a little time and a headache.</p>
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		<title>Minecraft &#8220;Communication Error&#8221; at the server list screen</title>
		<link>http://www.user0.net/?p=53</link>
		<comments>http://www.user0.net/?p=53#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Dec 2011 00:48:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>root</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Minecraft]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[I had difficulty with Minecraft that I hope I can relieve for someone else. I run a 32 player Minecraft server for my friends and family and it has displayed a &#8220;Communication Error&#8221; on the client when you pull up &#8230; <a href="http://www.user0.net/?p=53">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I had difficulty with Minecraft that I hope I can relieve for someone else. I run a 32 player Minecraft server for my friends and family and it has displayed a &#8220;Communication Error&#8221; on the client when you pull up the server list.</p>
<p>The cause was the MOTD in server.properties was too long. I shortened it to 26 characters and it works fine. I didn&#8217;t play with the exact length.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Road to homemade PCB adventure, the laser transfer method</title>
		<link>http://www.user0.net/?p=51</link>
		<comments>http://www.user0.net/?p=51#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Dec 2011 06:25:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>root</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Electronics]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.user0.net/?p=51</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[My adventure started with Arduino, and a book that included instructions for making your own Arduino clone board by etching the PCB at home. Arduino Robotics has a chapter dedicated to the Arduino clone he calls jduino. I want to &#8230; <a href="http://www.user0.net/?p=51">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My adventure started with Arduino, and a book that included instructions for making your own Arduino clone board by etching the PCB at home. <a title="Arduino Robotics" href="http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Robotics-John-David-Warren/dp/1430231831/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1322102390&amp;sr=8-1" target="_blank">Arduino Robotics</a> has a chapter dedicated to the Arduino clone he calls jduino. I want to walk with you through the process and share what I have learned. You begin with a copper clad circuit board, transfer toner to the copper and bathe the board to chemicals that will remove the copper that is not covered by toner. At a minimum you will need a black only laser printer (ink jet and color laser will not work) and a clothes iron. I purchased a Brother laser printer that was less than $100 (if you are in the US, check <a href="http://www.salescircular.com">salescircular.com</a> for the local weekly sales), and a <a title="Continental Electric CP43001 Classic Dry Iron" href="http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Electric-CP43001-Classic-Iron/dp/B000VU9T74/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1323059607&amp;sr=8-1" target="_blank">non-steam iron from Amazon</a> for $15. You can use a printer you already have access to, and although the non-steam iron works better any clothes iron will work.</p>
<p>Materials you need:<br />
Tools:<br />
Black only laser printer<br />
Clothes iron<br />
CadSoft Eagle PCB design software<br />
optional &#8211; wood chopping block<br />
optional &#8211; silicon baking sheet cover</p>
<p>Consumables:<br />
Magazine with slick paper<br />
Copper clad circuit board<br />
Scotch Brite pad<br />
Acetone (or Lacquer Thinner)<br />
Paper towels &#8211; I like the Scott brand blue Shop Towels</p>
<p>The design process, or simply printing someone else&#8217;s design in this case is done with Eagle PCB design software from <a href="http://www.cadsoftusa.com/" target="_blank">CadSoft</a>. Eagle will permit you to enter a schematic then it will provide a physical footprint to layout the components and traces for a Printed Circuit Board (PCB). While the commercial version of Eagle is expensive, there is a limited free version that will serve most of our needs; it is limited to two layers of copper and a modest board size. The Eagle design files for the jduino are available from the publisher&#8217;s website <a title="APress Arduino Robotics" href="http://www.apress.com/9781430231837" target="_blank">http://www.apress.com/9781430231837</a> and provide a good starting place for the project.</p>
<p>After loading Eagle and opening the Arduino_clone.brd from the chapter 6 files, you will have a view of the copper for the traces. We are going to use the laser toner transfer method and need to hide component outlines, notes and anything that doesn&#8217;t represent copper traces. While viewing the board in Eagle, click the View menu and select &#8220;Display/hide layers&#8230;&#8221;. We want to only display layers 16 Bottom, 17 Pads and 18 Vias; the fastest way is to click the &#8220;None&#8221; button at the bottom of the new window, then click the numbers 16, 17 and 18, and click OK to apply the view. We will print the schematic to a sheet of glossy magazine paper; don&#8217;t use a magazine with newsprint quality paper as irregularities will cause problems with the transfer later. Tear a sheet from a magazine and load it into the laser printer. Back in Eagle, click File, Print and make sure the only options checked are Black and Solid, clearing Mirror, Rotate, Upside down and Caption. Click OK to print it on that magazine page&#8230;</p>
<p>The reason for the slick paper is to provide a poor physical bond with the toner, and most magazines use a soy based ink that will not transfer off the paper and so the original print on the page does not effect our use. Be careful not to touch the toner after printing, because the oil will prevent the toner from bonding to the copper. Trim the page down to the newly printed area and set it aside while we prepare the copper clad board.</p>
<p>There are many places to obtain copper clad board. Radio Shack carries a <a title="2-Sided Copper-Clad PC Board" href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102495" target="_blank">double sided pc board</a> that will work, but tends to be more expensive and since we will only use one side it increases the time to etch without a benefit. I pass through a city with Fry&#8217;s every six months and when I am not near a Fry&#8217;s I mail order from them. They carry an <a title="MG-515 8&quot; x 10&quot; Single Sided 1/16&quot; Copper Clad Board " href="http://www.frys.com/product/324689" target="_blank">8&#215;10 single sided copper clad pc board</a> that works well. Just cut the board to the size required; I found I could cut the 8&#215;10 board and get 11 jduinos. Measure for a cut, use a carpenter&#8217;s triangle and a breakaway blade to cut the surface of the board. Then you can break the board across a sharp angle similar to plexiglass. Wear eye protection and gloves.</p>
<p>Scrub the copper with a Scotch Brite pad to remove oxidation and to provide a more porous surface. Clean the surface with lacquer thinner or acetone to remove dust, oil and contaminants that would interfere with the toner adhering to the surface. Apply acetone to a paper towel, wipe the surface, fold it over and repeat. Clean the surface until you do not see anything on the paper towel, then clean the surface three more times. A common problem is that the surface has contaminant that isn&#8217;t visible to the eye but will prevent toner from bonding to the copper. I prefer Scott Shop Towels because they don&#8217;t fuzz up or tear while scrubbing; they are a blue thicker paper towel that is commonly sold in hardware stores. Be careful not to touch the copper after cleaning or you get to start over with the acetone.</p>
<p>Find a heat resistant surface that will support you leaning on to the surface with the iron. I use the kitchen counter, place a thick wood chopping block on the counter and then a silicon baking sheet cover over the block. Set the iron to the highest heat setting and let it heat up before using it. Place the PCB with the copper side up. Place the magazine paper on the PCB with the toner down, facing the copper. Place the iron on the paper and let it sit for 30 seconds. This will heat the toner and it will to adhere to the copper. Be careful not to move the paper or the iron because moving either will cause the transfer to be messed up.</p>
<p>[add a photo of the chopping block with silicon baking sheet cover with iron]</p>
<p>After the 30 seconds, lift the iron and place a piece of scrap magazine paper over the board (don&#8217;t remove the page from the copper though) and move the tip of the iron over the whole surface of the board to ensure that all parts of the paper are flat against the board (no wrinkles). Again place the iron so it covers the whole trace magazine piece and press down on the board for 3 minutes. After 3 minutes remove the iron, turn it off and let the board cool until you can safely touch it.</p>
<p>The toner only had a marginal hold on the magazine paper, and by heating it the toner has adhered to the copper fairly well. Soak the paper in warm water until the paper become slightly pulpy. Gently pull the paper away and use your finger tip without your finger nail to rub the paper away. While the toner is adhered to the copper, it is possible to scratch it away with your finger nail.</p>
<p>Before you go any further, check that the traces transferred completely. It is simple to use an <a title="MG 416-RP Etch Resist Pen" href="http://www.frys.com/product/2639862" target="_blank">etch resistant pen</a> or fingernail polish to touch-up missing traces at this time. I&#8217;ve made some changes to the design, but here is an example of the toner on the copper. The darker circles are areas I touched up with a pen.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.user0.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/IMG_1620.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-56" title="IMG_1620" src="http://www.user0.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/IMG_1620-300x296.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="296" /></a></p>
<p>Next, the etching&#8230;</p>
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		<title>Etching PCB with the laser transfer method &#8211; Lessons Learned</title>
		<link>http://www.user0.net/?p=46</link>
		<comments>http://www.user0.net/?p=46#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 30 Oct 2011 05:47:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>root</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Arduino]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Electronics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[PCB]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.user0.net/?p=46</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have been working from the Arduino Robotics book to make a few Arduino clone boards. The book is pretty descriptive, and I have learned a few lessons about what works and what does not work and want to share. &#8230; <a href="http://www.user0.net/?p=46">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have been working from the Arduino Robotics book to make a few Arduino clone boards. The book is pretty descriptive, and I have learned a few lessons about what works and what does not work and want to share.</p>
<p>First, lets talk about how the process works. I bought an 8&#215;10 printed circuit board from Fry&#8217;s electronics with copper on one side. You print the circuit board design on glossy magazine paper, place the toner toward the copper and heat with an iron to transfer the toner. Then wet the paper to remove it, leaving the toner on the copper.</p>
<p>Lessons learned:<br />
Only black and white laser printers work, and a cheap one will work as well as an expensive one. Ink jet will not, but more surprisingly color laser does not work. When you use a color laser the toner &#8220;bleeds&#8221; or spreads out while transfering and instead of getting crisp lines you get a droplet effect in the traces.</p>
<p>Use a good magazine with slick surface. I originally tried a magazine with more of a newsprint quality paper and glossy surface and irregularities in the surface caused problems.</p>
<p>When you transfer the toner, you use a clothes iron on the hottest setting and do NOT use steam. A dry iron &#8211; made without steam capability &#8211; will not have holes. They are available on Amazon for $14.99 and rescued me from having little ovals of toner that did not transfer to the copper. I bought the &#8220;Continental Electric CP43001 Classic Dry Iron&#8221;.</p>
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		<title>Halloween is upon us</title>
		<link>http://www.user0.net/?p=39</link>
		<comments>http://www.user0.net/?p=39#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 30 Oct 2011 05:30:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>root</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.user0.net/?p=39</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I don&#8217;t often dress up for Halloween, although the children often go to a carnival or similar somewhere that we can trust the candy and general environment. This year on a whim, I dressed up as the VeggieTales character Bob &#8230; <a href="http://www.user0.net/?p=39">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I don&#8217;t often dress up for Halloween, although the children often go to a carnival or similar somewhere that we can trust the candy and general environment. This year on a whim, I dressed up as the VeggieTales character Bob the Tomato and my wife &#8211; who is expecting &#8211; dressed &#8220;the baby&#8221; as a soccer ball. My oldest daughter was a soccer coach and the boys were Super Hero King and Super Hero Sidekick.</p>

<a href='http://www.user0.net/?attachment_id=40' title='IMG_1601-2'><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.user0.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/IMG_1601-2-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="IMG_1601-2" title="IMG_1601-2" /></a>
<a href='http://www.user0.net/?attachment_id=41' title='IMG_1604-2'><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.user0.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/IMG_1604-2-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="IMG_1604-2" title="IMG_1604-2" /></a>
<a href='http://www.user0.net/?attachment_id=42' title='IMG_1610-2'><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.user0.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/IMG_1610-2-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="IMG_1610-2" title="IMG_1610-2" /></a>

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		<title>Katy, daddy and the stereo amp</title>
		<link>http://www.user0.net/?p=34</link>
		<comments>http://www.user0.net/?p=34#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Sep 2011 21:23:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>root</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Electronics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Katy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soldering]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[My daughter told me during my projects that she wanted to solder. And in another conversation that she wants a speaker for her iPod Touch (a 1st gen that doesn&#8217;t have a speaker). Last week I shopped Digikey and bought &#8230; <a href="http://www.user0.net/?p=34">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My daughter told me during my projects that she wanted to solder. And in another conversation that she wants a speaker for her iPod Touch (a 1st gen that doesn&#8217;t have a speaker).</p>
<p>Last week I shopped Digikey and bought components for a stereo LM386 based amp and two 1&#8243; speakers. We threw in a few capacitors, resistors and a protoboard from Radio Shack and we soldered.</p>
<p><a href="http://capturinglife.org/gallery3/index.php/CharlesPhotographs/speaker-for-Katy"><img class="alignnone" title="Katy soldering" src="http://capturinglife.org/gallery3/var/resizes/CharlesPhotographs/speaker-for-Katy/IMG_1566.JPG?m=1317075337" alt="" width="480" height="320" /></a></p>
<p>After we assembled the circuit and tried it out, but before we fastened everything down, we discovered it made a humming clicking noise. I built it from the datasheet but I did not breadboard the circuit first. A day later, a breadboard and some testing with a capacitor as a filter, I found that one LM386 did not have a problem, but using two of them did. The fix? I put a 100uF capacitor between the positive and negative.</p>
<p>For the enclosure, we used a First Aid kit in the travel section at Target. Price? $1</p>
<p><a href="http://capturinglife.org/gallery3/index.php/CharlesPhotographs/speaker-for-Katy"><img class="alignnone" title="The amp insides" src="http://capturinglife.org/gallery3/var/resizes/CharlesPhotographs/speaker-for-Katy/IMG_1573.JPG?m=1317076232" alt="" width="467" height="700" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://capturinglife.org/gallery3/index.php/CharlesPhotographs/speaker-for-Katy"><img class="alignnone" title="Speaker complete" src="http://capturinglife.org/gallery3/var/resizes/CharlesPhotographs/speaker-for-Katy/IMG_1577.JPG?m=1317175100" alt="" width="467" height="700" /></a></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Verifying CPU virtualization support from Linux</title>
		<link>http://www.user0.net/?p=29</link>
		<comments>http://www.user0.net/?p=29#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 26 Jun 2011 18:38:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>root</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[What do I need to run a guest machine in fully virtualization mode? The processor must support Hardware-Assisted Virtual Machine (HVM). To check if the processor supports HVM use the following command: For Intel processors: grep -i --color vmx /proc/cpuinfo &#8230; <a href="http://www.user0.net/?p=29">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What do I need to run a guest machine in fully virtualization mode?<br />
The processor must support Hardware-Assisted Virtual Machine (HVM).</p>
<p>To check if the processor supports HVM use the following command:</p>
<p>For Intel processors:</p>
<pre>grep -i --color vmx /proc/cpuinfo
</pre>
<p>For AMD processors:</p>
<pre>grep -i color svm /proc/cpuinfo
</pre>
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		<title>Installing OMSA 6.5 VIBs on ESXi 4.1 and 4.1 Update 1 (including the free version)</title>
		<link>http://www.user0.net/?p=7</link>
		<comments>http://www.user0.net/?p=7#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jun 2011 03:23:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>root</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[ESXi]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[OMSA]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Links update 06/21/2011 Download the VIB package and transfer it to the host with scp or datastore browser http://ftp.us.dell.com/sysman/OM-SrvAdmin-Dell-Web-6.5.0-2247.VIB-ESX41i_A01.zip Moved the bundle to /tmp and use cd to change directory there. /tmp # esxupdate update --bundle ./OM-SrvAdmin-Dell-Web-6.5.0-2247.VIB-ESX41i_A01.zip Unpacking cross_oem-dell-openmanag.. ################################################ &#8230; <a href="http://www.user0.net/?p=7">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Links update 06/21/2011</p>
<p>Download the VIB package and transfer it to the host with scp or datastore browser<br />
<a title="External link to http://ftp.us.dell.com/sysman/OM-SrvAdmin-Dell-Web-6.5.0-2247.VIB-ESX41i_A01.zip" href="http://ftp.us.dell.com/sysman/OM-SrvAdmin-Dell-Web-6.5.0-2247.VIB-ESX41i_A01.zip" target="_blank">http://ftp.us.dell.com/sysman/OM-SrvAdmin-Dell-Web-6.5.0-2247.VIB-ESX41i_A01.zip</a></p>
<p>Moved the bundle to /tmp and use cd to change directory there.</p>
<pre>/tmp # esxupdate update --bundle ./OM-SrvAdmin-Dell-Web-6.5.0-2247.VIB-ESX41i_A01.zip
</pre>
<p><code><br />
Unpacking cross_oem-dell-openmanag.. ################################################ [100%]</p>
<p>Installing packages :cross_oem-del.. ################################################ [100%]</p>
<p>Running [cim-install.sh]...<br />
ok.<br />
Running [vmkmod-install.sh]...<br />
ok.<br />
Running [/sbin/esxcfg-secpolicy -p /etc/vmware/secpolicy]...<br />
ok.<br />
The update completed successfully, but the system needs to be rebooted for the<br />
changes to be effective.<br />
</code><br />
The <a title="The tiddler 'CIMoemProviderEnabled' doesn't yet exist">CIMoemProviderEnabled</a> variable will not exist until the host is restarted.<br />
<strong>Note that the variable changed names between ESXi 4.0 and 4.1, oem is now lowercase, and Provider without an s.</strong><br />
To list all variables (you might want to pipe to less |less )</p>
<pre>/tmp # esxcfg-advcfg -l
</pre>
<p>After the reboot, you can then enable <a title="The tiddler 'CIMoemProviderEnabled' doesn't yet exist">CIMoemProviderEnabled</a> with the command line or VIC. Once this is completed you must restart  the management services from the service console or reboot the host.</p>
<pre>/tmp # esxcfg-advcfg --set 1 /UserVars/CIMoemProviderEnabled
</pre>
<p>Or through the VIC,</p>
<ul>
<li> Select the ESXi Host,</li>
<li> click on the Configuration Tab,</li>
<li> select &#8220;Advance Settings&#8221;,</li>
<li> select &#8220;UserVars&#8221; and change the value of the CIMOEMProvidersEnabled to &#8220;1&#8243;.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>My test system did not have the services, so I restarted the host. You could restart the management services from the console also.</strong><br />
To restart the management services from the service console or ssh:</p>
<pre>/tmp # service mgmt-vmware restart
</pre>
<p>Caution: Ensure Automatic Startup/Shutdown of virtual  machines is disabled before running this command or you risk rebooting  the virtual machines. For more information, see Restarting hostd  (mgmt-vmware) on ESX Server Hosts Restarts Hosted Virtual Machines Where  Virtual Machine Startup/Shutdown is Enabled (1003312) and Determining  whether virtual machines are configured to autostart (1000163).</p>
<pre>/tmp # service vmware-vpxa restart
</pre>
<p>Type logout and press Enter to disconnect from the ESX host.</p>
<h1>Removing an existing OMSA package</h1>
<p>If you need to remove an existing OMSA package, you can use these commands to identify the bulletin name and remove it</p>
<pre>/tmp # esxupdate query
---------Bulletin ID--------- -----Installed----- --------------Summary---------------
ESXi410-201101223-UG          2011-01-13T05:09:39 3w-9xxx: scsi driver for VMware ESXi
ESXi410-201101224-UG          2011-01-13T05:09:39 vxge: net driver for VMware ESXi
Dell_OpenManage_ESXi410_OM650 2011-06-22T01:43:25 OpenManage 6.5 for ESXi410

/tmp # esxupdate remove -b Dell_OpenManage_ESXi410_OM650
</pre>
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